a new wonder

we are in aguas calientes, which is a small town at the base of machu picchu. though this town is completely given over to tourism, it´s still, ummmm, nice. there are hot water springs that are pleasantly luke warm, and more happy hour specials than you can shake a stick at.

we went to machu picchu at 5:30 this morning. the bus cuts back and forth on 20 switchbacks up a steep mountain that leads from aguas calientes to machu picchu. the mountains here are covered in a verdant jungle coating, and low white clouds cling to their peaks and valleys. in all seriousness, magical is a good word for it. when the bus delivered us to the top, we stood staring down at machu picchu through the cloud forest. the peaks in the distance stand at 6000+ meters, and their snow caps tower above machu picchu (which stands on a sizable mountain itself). the early morning clouds and mist swirled about the ruins in a ghost-like way that will forever haunt us. we had the place essentially to ourselves (sharing it with the other early birds and the heroic inca trail trekkers), and we explored the ruins extensively for a few morning hours. as morning broke, and the clouds and fog gave way to equatorial sunshine, the tourists started to arrive in droves. we took that opportunity to escape up to the peak of hauyna picchu, the large peak visible in all iconic machu picchu photographs. it was challenging both physically and in a ¨david-is-afraid-of-heights¨ sort of way, but the view at the top was spectacular and worth the physical and emotional stress.

now we are awaiting train transport back to cusco. we only have 2 nights left in peru, and have yet to indulge in the local delicacy of cuy del horno (oven roasted guinea pig). i think that´s on the menu tonight.

by the way, we did have some chicha (saliva fermented corn beer). bitter, indeed.

Post script: in our entry about the coriolus effect, we stated that peruvian toilet water spins counterclockwise while flushing, and wondered what yours does. please advise.